Back in the late ’90s and early aughts, a small but information-dense ’zine circulated in the Eugene, Oregon area called “Weed Lover.” The premise was that weeds offend gardeners by growing where they’re not wanted, but that they nevertheless offer great value by way of food, medicine and pulling nutrients up from the subsoil to feed neighboring plants. They also may be physically useful: one gardener tied her tomatoes to their cages using bindweed. One of the very best things about...